Visited: August 27, 2018
England has bank holidays from time to time - why I don't know - maybe to count their money? The best part of them though is the commoners get the day off too. I used August Bank holiday to visit Brighton.
For those who haven't been, Brighton is a lovely town (city?) of over 200,000 situated almost directly South of London, England on the English Channel. The city (which I've decided to call it - as I believe it deserved the designation due to its size) is a eclectic mix of amusement park, rough beach, trendy neighbourhoods and restaurants, narrow lane markets and some wacky buildings built by the English Monarchy. It is only 1 hour by train from London.
A Royal Period
Brighton had been around for many centuries in some form when it started to become more fashionable in the early 19th Century. The prince who would be know as George IV made many trips there as a bachelor and eventually built the Royal Pavilion (more on that later). G4 spent many years and times in Brighton including after he became King and visited long into his later years until he could no longer go for reasons of health.
During a period of 30-40 years Brighton had grown very popular with out-of-town folks looking for a vacation which was made easier by a new rail line built to the city.
William IV also spend time in Brighton and in general the monarchs enjoyed the city for many years until the Royal Pavilion was sold in 1841. Victoria's family became too big to use the Pavilion and being frustrated they were also exposed to regular commoners seeing it was in the middle of town (err the city) she disposed of it.
Piering into the Past
If you go to Brighton solely for the pier (not pictured to the left - that is what's left of West Pier) you likely won't be disappointed. While it's probably served best with two children, a wad full of cash and a flask of whiskey, even a single gentleman like myself can enjoy the sights and sounds of the packed pier.
The main pier itself (officially know as Brighton Palace Pier) is one of three built in Brighton over the years. Brighton Pier opened in 1899 to replace the Royal Suspension Chain Pier which had been destroyed 3 years earlier in a storm. There was also West Pier which was in use from 1866 to 1975, and continued to stand until the early 2000s.
If you do go to the pier you'll find it's filled with old style carnival games, rot your belly food and drinks and entry level amusement park rides. It will probably not be listed as the most bang for the buck when it comes to those things, but the experience of walking out onto a historic pier and feeling the excitement in the air is well worth it!
Royal Pavilion
As mentioned the pavilion was built by G4 (using his father's money most likely) in the early 19th century. It was made to look like an Indian building on the outside and decorated in Chinese style on the inside. Apparently G4 had been to neither India nor China so it was a best interpretation based on his architects and paintings they likely saw at the time.
Unfortunately you cannot take photos inside, but I can advise it is worth a visit.
Upon arrival you start at the reception area which is very modest and then move into a clearly Chinese themed main hallway with all kinds of imported Chinese art and decorations. On one side of this hallway is a very large dinning hall which is very well decked out including a massive chandelier with a dragon at the top. Dragons are found in many spots in the pavilion.
Inside on the ground floor you also get to see the great kitchen which was so state of the art at the time that G4 would often hosts dinners in the kitchen and had it built beside the dinning hall so at very least he could show it off. There are also music rooms and the King's apartments and library downstairs.
Upstairs you will find rooms where G4's brothers slept, apartments for Victoria and various art rooms.
Kemptown
A lesser visited part of Brighton is Kemptown. Kemptown is the area directly East of the main section of Brighton (i.e. near the pier). It is a slice of a neighbourhood which is just North of the shoreline.
The neighbourhood is filled with independent shops, restaurants, pubs and lovely little houses and lanes. It certainly has an air of artistry to it including some clever graffiti sprinkled here and there.
If you have time during your trip to Brighton I suggest hiring a bicycle and riding out to Kemptown for lunch and a bit of shopping.
The waterfront and the lanes
If you've just come down for the day and have spent time on the pier, had lunch in Kemptown and visited the Royal Pavilion you can be forgiven for forgetting there is even more to Brighton!
Brighton does have beach. It's mostly made of larger pebbles but it's there. On a cloudy cooler day you won't find a lot of people spending time lounging on the beach but on those rare warm and sunny days in Brighton people come out in droves. Everyone from kids and parents, to mature couples and some energetic 20 somethings can be found on the beach.
Even if it's not the nicest day it's still worth walking along the pathway beside the beach. A bit West of the pier, you will find the British Airways i360 glass viewing pod which raises you 450 feet above the ground for some wonderful views.
There is even a free fishing museum under the embankment path with all kinds of Brighton maritime history.
Back towards the centre of town you'll find the North Laine Bazaar which has all kinds of unique shopping. Don't hesitate to drop by, you might just find something fun to take home with you.
In a similar vain there are also bunch of individual market stands and stores in the lane which runs just Northwest of the pier. The lanes all seem to have a slightly different look and feel and were quite busy on the Saturday I visited Brighton.
That's a wrap
All in all Brighton has a nice small town feel in a city big enough to find easily a couple days of entertainment. Whether you prefer to go on just a day trip from London or spend many days there as a home base to explore the local costal area, Brighton will likely not disappoint. Unless it rains - which it just may. You are in England after all!
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